Day one
A rooftop of their own
Maggy and Henri live two streets away, so the keys come with a doorstep welcome and a tour that ends where every stay at Soleiha ends: on the private rooftop, above the terracotta roofs, with the sea in the gap between two chimneys. The children claimed it before the suitcases were open.
First dinner three minutes away, outside, pizza and grilled fish — the kind of simple the old town does best. Both children asleep before the second course arrived home.
Most mornings
The Gravette, before the towels arrive
The Gravette is five minutes downhill from the door: a sheltered horseshoe of sand under the ramparts, shallow far enough out that the children can be brave and the parents can stay seated. In July the trick is the hour — there by half past eight with croissants, back at the house before the sun means business.
Swimsuits drying on the rooftop by ten. The rest of the morning belongs to the market, two minutes away, where the children were soon trusted with the strawberry budget.
Our beach guideDay three
Aquasplash: the promise, kept
Every family holiday needs one loud, chlorinated, entirely unforgettable day, and Aquasplash is Antibes’ answer — slides from gentle to heroic, a wave pool, and enough lawn for the picnic. It sits just outside town, ten minutes by taxi; book the tickets online the evening before and walk past the queue.
The measure of the day: both children asleep in the taxi home, at four in the afternoon. Dinner on the rooftop was very quiet and entirely happy.
Day five
To Monaco, by train
This is the outing that surprises parents most by how easy it is. The station is a ten-minute walk from the house, the train is direct, and for three-quarters of an hour the railway runs so close to the sea that the children spent the whole ride at the window, naming the boats. No car, no parking, no motorway — the train is the treat.
In Monaco: the Oceanographic Museum, built into the cliff, whose sharks and touch-pools absorb children for hours — then an ice cream by the port among the superyachts, and the same train home, everyone asleep by Cap-d’Ail.
Day seven
A boat day around the Cap
From Port Vauban, fifteen minutes’ walk from the house, Henri had arranged a boat with a skipper for the day — which changes everything with children: no chart to mind, no anchor to argue with, just the coves of the Cap d’Antibes one after another, and a captain who knew exactly where the water turns to glass.
Lunch on board, four swims, one jellyfish sighted and endlessly discussed. The sort of day the holiday gets remembered by.
Day nine
Saint-Tropez, the easy way
Saint-Tropez in July is a legend with a traffic problem — which is why the only civilised version begins with a car and a driver booked for the day: an early start, door to door, and nobody circling for a parking space in August. What the family found was gentler than the legend: the citadel on its hill, where peacocks patrol the ramparts to the children’s delight, the ochre port, and a tarte tropézienne eaten on the quay in strict silence.
Beach afternoon at Pampelonne, then home through the vineyards while everyone slept. The parents’ verdict: exactly once, exactly this way.
Day eleven
The Verdon, the one great expedition
Every stay is allowed one day that breaks the fifty-kilometre rule. Two hours inland, the Verdon gorges are Europe’s grandest canyon, and at the Lac de Sainte-Croix its turquoise water is shared out in pedalos and little electric boats that children are allowed to captain. A driver and a six o’clock start make it effortless; the family brought the picnic.
An hour up the gorge by boat, cliffs three hundred metres overhead, then a swim in the lake’s warm shallows. The drive home was silent in the best possible way.
Day thirteen
Glass, fire and a ferris wheel
Ten minutes away, the glassblowers of Biot have been turning sand and breath into bubbled glass since 1956, and children stand hypnotised at the furnace rail — fire, glowing glass, and a finished carafe inside four minutes. The family came home with four glasses, each chosen by its future owner.
And because it was nearly the last night: the summer funfair by the sea on the way home, one ferris wheel ride, the old town glowing from the top. A finale nobody had planned and nobody would cut.
The days between
The art of doing nothing, together
Every other day, by design, was nothing at all: a slow morning at the house, the market, the rooftop paddling pool improvised from a basin, card games through the siesta hours with the shutters half closed and the air conditioning on. The old town waited downstairs, and in the evening the family went to it — a different simple restaurant each night, all within five minutes, no car keys touched for two weeks.
That was the discovery the parents wrote to us about afterwards: with everything on foot, the holiday needs no logistics. The adventures were wonderful; the days between them were the point.
Where we send families for dinner